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Negotiating with MB dealer

by kubikdanon
50 replies
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Hey guys! I am planning on purchasing new Mercedes and it really comes with a big sticker price. I want and NEED to negotiate hard so I can get best value for my buck. First of all, I am planning on doing European Delivery Program which gives you up to 7% OFF of MSRP.

What should I also do in order to get discounts/rebates/incentives? How do I speak with a salesperson to get those discounts? Car will be around $66k. Considering 7% off of EDP I will get into ~61k. I really want to drop the price more for 3-4 grant.

Any suggestions will be appreciated!
  • Profile picture of the author David Beroff
    Or you could save yourself over US$50k and get one of these:
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  • Profile picture of the author Kay King
    True story:

    A friend in Atlanta ordered a Rolls Royce Corniche. The car would be delivered to my friend by closed truck.

    The price of the car was well over $100k and Billy didn't flinch at it. But when the person on the phone mentioned a "delivery fee" of several thousand dollars, Billy started to bargain and made a lower offer.

    The salesperson on the phone said "sir, when buying a Rolls-Royce, one does not negotiate." My friend - who was as down south as you can get - said "sir, when you deal with Bily XXXX, one ALWAYS negotiates".

    In the end he got free delivery. I got first ride in his new Rolls convertible - because I was the only friend who didn't think he was crazy for buying it.
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  • Profile picture of the author Kay King
    David - that little car looks like it should have a tricycle seat on top of it.

    I love to ride in a good car - love convertibles and bought them for years.

    However, I don't like to pay for cars which is why I drive an old SUV. It looks new -drives great - is very comfortable with loads of cargo space - has all the bells and whistles available 10+ yrs ago. My family is trying to convince me to buy a new car...and I'm dragging my feet all the way.
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    • Profile picture of the author David Beroff
      Originally Posted by Kay King View Post

      David - that little car looks like it should have a tricycle seat on top of it.
      Perhaps. Maybe even a helmet. But I'll be paying for it in cash, not with monthly payments that are higher than some mortgages. And go four times further for every gallon of gas.
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  • Profile picture of the author Kay King
    For navigating in a small town or small city - that might be a good option. I wouldn't want to be on highways as it looks like a "squish" waiting to happen.
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    January was long, February was iffy, March was a freaking dumpster fire.
    So sit down, be quiet, and don't touch anything.
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  • Profile picture of the author DURABLEOILCOM
    Originally Posted by kubikdanon View Post

    Hey guys! I am planning on purchasing new Mercedes and it really comes with a big sticker price. I want and NEED to negotiate hard so I can get best value for my buck. First of all, I am planning on doing European Delivery Program which gives you up to 7% OFF of MSRP.

    What should I also do in order to get discounts/rebates/incentives? How do I speak with a salesperson to get those discounts? Car will be around $66k. Considering 7% off of EDP I will get into ~61k. I really want to drop the price more for 3-4 grant.

    Any suggestions will be appreciated!

    Www.truecar.com

    And

    Email all your local dealers see who wants to give you the best deal.
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    Ready to Be The Bo$$!?!

    Start Your Own Business Today!
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  • Profile picture of the author yukon
    Banned
    He's buying a $70,000 car and worrying about a discount.
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    • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
      Originally Posted by yukon View Post

      He's buying a $70,000 car and worrying about a discount.
      That is exactly why I want a discount. If I were buying a $25,000 car I would not care much.
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      • Profile picture of the author David Beroff
        Originally Posted by kubikdanon View Post

        That is exactly why I want a discount. If I were buying a $25,000 car I would not care much.
        So why not save yourself all that money and just buy the less expensive car?
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      • Profile picture of the author yukon
        Banned
        Originally Posted by kubikdanon View Post

        That is exactly why I want a discount. If I were buying a $25,000 car I would not care much.

        Lol, wait until you see the tax bill & insurance rates.
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  • Profile picture of the author Dan Riffle
    Contact Tom here: AutomatchConsulting.com. He's a writer over at jalopnik.com and negotiates car purchases for a living.
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    Originally Posted by kubikdanon View Post

    Hey guys! I am planning on purchasing new Mercedes and it really comes with a big sticker price. I want and NEED to negotiate hard so I can get best value for my buck. First of all, I am planning on doing European Delivery Program which gives you up to 7% OFF of MSRP.

    What should I also do in order to get discounts/rebates/incentives? How do I speak with a salesperson to get those discounts? Car will be around $66k. Considering 7% off of EDP I will get into ~61k. I really want to drop the price more for 3-4 grant.

    Any suggestions will be appreciated!
    Generally speaking you're getting 7% off and the dealer is not likely to negotiate much further. Depending on how long you intend to keep the car, you could get them to max out the extended warranties at dealer cost. There is considerable savings to be had in that purchase, and as it costs them nothing out of pocket, they might go for it.

    You could also try to get a couple A services thrown in, but honestly, with 10 quarts of oil and 10,000 mile oil changes, you aren't exactly at the dealer every 3 months any more.
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    • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
      Originally Posted by yukon View Post

      Lol, wait until you see the tax bill & insurance rates.
      I can calculate the sales tax off the price of this vehicle, I don't need to wait for it Insurance also pretty good - not leasing.

      Originally Posted by David Beroff View Post

      So why not save yourself all that money and just buy the less expensive car?
      Simply because this car is better.


      Originally Posted by agc View Post

      Generally speaking you're getting 7% off and the dealer is not likely to negotiate much further. Depending on how long you intend to keep the car, you could get them to max out the extended warranties at dealer cost. There is considerable savings to be had in that purchase, and as it costs them nothing out of pocket, they might go for it.

      You could also try to get a couple A services thrown in, but honestly, with 10 quarts of oil and 10,000 mile oil changes, you aren't exactly at the dealer every 3 months any more.
      Thanks for the reply. I was just thinking because this is a manufacturer who is giving me 7 % off, dealer could give me more discount.
      I've read a lot about extended warranty and pretty much everyone says that's a waste of money whether or not I am going to keep this car for a long period of time (which I am not planning on hopefully)


      Also, what could be problems/issues that I can face when doing financing for the vehicle? I want to get any deal really because I am planning on paying this vehicle off in one year, so APR doesn't matter much, but just don't want to lose money on that stage. Also, I know that I can throw trade-in car when I am all set with the vehicle price.. What should be the realistic price I should go for when talking about trade in? Should it be KBB Trade-in value? Is it worth it trying to sell the vehicle on my own? It is Nissan MAxima 2005
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      • Profile picture of the author agc
        Originally Posted by kubikdanon View Post

        I've read a lot about extended warranty and pretty much everyone says that's a waste of money whether or not I am going to keep this car for a long period of time (which I am not planning on hopefully)
        Have you seen what it costs to get a car fixed at a MB dealership? If you're the type to have the dealer fix your car, get the warranty. Even on my Ford minivan, the transmission alone ran over $3k. At AAMCO. Let alone at the Ford dealer.

        For 20+ years I did all my own work. I NEVER got the warranty. But these days I really don't feel like crawling around under the car, especially since I just don't have to anymore. So I've started getting the extended warranty. Less hassle, less stress. I figure if I can't afford the extended warranty, I probably can't afford the SL63 either.

        But if you still do all your own work, or you have a hookup / relative that does it for you, then skip the warranty.
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        • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
          Originally Posted by agc View Post

          Have you seen what it costs to get a car fixed at a MB dealership? If you're the type to have the dealer fix your car, get the warranty. Even on my Ford minivan, the transmission alone ran over $3k. At AAMCO. Let alone at the Ford dealer.

          For 20+ years I did all my own work. I NEVER got the warranty. But these days I really don't feel like crawling around under the car, especially since I just don't have to anymore. So I've started getting the extended warranty. Less hassle, less stress. I figure if I can't afford the extended warranty, I probably can't afford the SL63 either.

          But if you still do all your own work, or you have a hookup / relative that does it for you, then skip the warranty.
          What I am saying is that I will more likely to buy different car in 3 years when the standard warranty is going to expire and I will not need the extended warranty anyways.
          However, thanks for your suggestion, something to consider/think about anyways.
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          • Profile picture of the author bizgrower
            Originally Posted by kubikdanon View Post

            What I am saying is that I will more likely to buy different car in 3 years when the standard warranty is going to expire and I will not need the extended warranty anyways.
            However, thanks for your suggestion, something to consider/think about anyways.
            See if there is a special version that will hold it's value better than others. MB's don't seem
            to hold their value as much as they used to. Worth taking a look at what three year old MB's go for
            and take into account that higher end cars are harder to sell/trade - especially if the economy tanks.

            Example:
            I doubt they can still do it, but I knew somebody who had a signature version of a vehicle.
            Signature plaque of one of the founders or execs in the glove box - and I don't know what else. Supposed to be worth the same as what she paid for it.

            Trade in:
            I'd get a quote from the dealer on your trade and compare that to what you can do on your own.
            And weigh in how long you can wait to sell the Maxima if you go it on your own, and is parking
            extra cars an issue where you live?

            Dan
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            • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
              Originally Posted by bizgrower View Post

              See if there is a special version that will hold it's value better than others. MB's don't seem
              to hold their value as much as they used to. Worth taking a look at what three year old MB's go for
              and take into account that higher end cars are harder to sell/trade - especially if the economy tanks.

              Example:
              I doubt they can still do it, but I knew somebody who had a signature version of a vehicle.
              Signature plaque of one of the founders or execs in the glove box - and I don't know what else. Supposed to be worth the same as what she paid for it.

              Trade in:
              I'd get a quote from the dealer on your trade and compare that to what you can do on your own.
              And weigh in how long you can wait to sell the Maxima if you go it on your own, and is parking
              extra cars an issue where you live?

              Dan
              I agree with MB not holding values. I will be specific now:
              I want to buy C300 4MATIC Coupe OR C43 AMG Coupe
              first one has MSRP of $56,650 and is available today, second one is whatever I stated in the first post and is not even available yet. The reason I wanted to get C43 AMG is actually because of the value for my dollar: C300 seems like a 'regular' mercedes, where C43 AMG is a first of those 'new' badging/numbers (43 AMG is now an official member of AMG family as opposed to 450 AMG that was the same as M Performance/S for Audi)

              I would love to buy C300 because it is available right now and with EDP, I would be able to get it for around ~$50,000. However, I am worried about future value & future of the car.
              With C43 AMG, I could keep that car for a longer time because Engine is already good and I will be able to just chip it/tune it so it becomes even better.
              Even tho 43 is not really 'true' AMG because engine is not crafted by one person, I think it still gonna hold good value. Also Edition 1 could be something that can help the value not to drop too much. Never heard about that 'personalization' stuff, but I would definitely ask about it (taking in considiration I am going for European Delivery - car is going to be right off the factory).

              I don't really need to sell Maxima ASAP nor it doesn't really hurt me to have additional 4th car. Anyways, it would be easier/hastle free to just give it as a trade in.
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    If you want to know what your Maxima is worth, go on autotrader, and figure about 30% less than the cheapest end of the pack of ones in equivalent miles, model (S, SE, etc), and condition to yours.

    Ignore the outliers (say the cheapest 5% of the cars listed).
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  • Profile picture of the author Kay King
    I've driven Mercedes and BMW - and love them! They are great cars but I'd never buy one.

    I don't spend that much on transportation - but also I don't want something so precious I have to worry about it. That's just me. I like to ride with friends who own those cars, though.

    I use Kellys Blue Book online to look up auto values - gives you many options to arrive at a good number and separates 'trade in' from 'private sale' numbers. So far, it's been spot for me.
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    • Profile picture of the author DWolfe
      Originally Posted by Kay King View Post

      I use Kellys Blue Book online to look up auto values - gives you many options to arrive at a good number and separates 'trade in' from 'private sale' numbers. So far, it's been spot for me.
      I have seen dealers use a guide calls "Galves" these are a lot lower in price on trade-ins, so the dealer can resell the trade-in and make a profit. Kelly is great but the dealer wants to make money one way or the other out of a trade in. Interesting the OP does not want a Warranty. With all the electronics on a vehicle today MB is known to have some issues in the past with the electrical component's. Recently I know of two 2016 vehicles this month that got stuck on the road and went back to the dealer. Not knocking MB either.
      Op should really invest in something that is a long term asset then buying a high price toy. His parents may one day deiced he should move out on his own. Apartments are not cheap.
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    Hate to break it to you but nothing drops in value faster than an AMG.

    If you're worried about depreciation, you're way better off with the C300. Why? because they sell tons of them and they are a commodity on the used market. Commodity type used cars tend to have more stable values and less value lost as there is a somewhat universally strong used market for them.
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    • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
      Originally Posted by agc View Post

      Hate to break it to you but nothing drops in value faster than an AMG.

      If you're worried about depreciation, you're way better off with the C300. Why? because they sell tons of them and they are a commodity on the used market. Commodity type used cars tend to have more stable values and less value lost as there is a somewhat universally strong used market for them.
      I am actually checking depreciation for C300 sedan versus C450 AMG sedan and residual is 63 % vs. 55 % in 3 years, so yeah, same will be with coupe, I hope even better..

      Wanted to have more sport, but seems like I need to wait until I can truly afford one lol

      Also: would it be reasonable to do lease vs financing if I am not planning on keeping this car more than for 3 years anyways?
      The only problem with leasing a car is mileage - I am driving at least 1,500 miles a month.
      Also, paying fixed amount for 3 years every month seems depressing - I'd better just pay the whole car off in one year and forget about it.
      Do these guys have like a pre-paid lease? Would be way better in this case.
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    If the car is really nice, why not keep it for 5? I suspect the last 2 years will be much (much) cheaper than the first 3. Get the warranty extensions and just use the car up.
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    • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
      Originally Posted by agc View Post

      If the car is really nice, why not keep it for 5? I suspect the last 2 years will be much (much) cheaper than the first 3. Get the warranty extensions and just use the car up.
      What do you mean by 'last 2 years will be much (much cheaper)'?

      Well, I hope that my life leads me into the direction where in 3 years I will be able to afford more expensive car, that is why I am saying I am not planning on using it more than that.
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    Hypothetically:
    At 1 year, with 18,000 miles, your residual might be 75%
    At 3 years with 54,000 miles, your residual might be 45%.
    At 5 years with 90,000 miles, your residual might be 18%.
    Those last two years cost you only 13.5% per year, while year 2 and 3 cost you 15% per year.

    Honestly though, if you expect to be buying a much nicer car in 3 years, why not drive the Maxima until the wheels fall off? Or PLAN for 5 years, and if you're lucky enough to make your goals trade it away without worry.

    I'm a big proponent of only spending "pocket money" for luxuries. If you're worried about residuals and squeezing every penny out of the purchase price, maybe you should wait?
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    • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
      Originally Posted by agc View Post

      Hypothetically:
      At 1 year, with 18,000 miles, your residual might be 75%
      At 3 years with 54,000 miles, your residual might be 45%.
      At 5 years with 90,000 miles, your residual might be 18%.
      Those last two years cost you only 13.5% per year, while year 2 and 3 cost you 15% per year.

      Honestly though, if you expect to be buying a much nicer car in 3 years, why not drive the Maxima until the wheels fall off? Or PLAN for 5 years, and if you're lucky enough to make your goals trade it away without worry.

      I'm a big proponent of only spending "pocket money" for luxuries. If you're worried about residuals and squeezing every penny out of the purchase price, maybe you should wait?
      3 years are too much driving this one hehe.. Concerning make plans for 5 years - yeah, will do, and will trade it away for a better car which is 90 % gonna be mercedes again.

      I am 20 years old, I have pocket money only. I live with my parents. I dont have bills to pay, ANY. So I dont know why would I just save up for 'something' if I can get the car I am dreaming about and pay it off in 1 year and then go for saving money for my future home or whatever.
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      • Profile picture of the author David Beroff
        Originally Posted by kubikdanon View Post

        I am 20 years old, I have pocket money only. I live with my parents. I dont have bills to pay, ANY. So I dont know why would I just save up for 'something' if I can get the car I am dreaming about and pay it off in 1 year and then go for saving money for my future home or whatever.
        I can't stress enough just how much I agree with agc.

        Your 70-year-old self would slap your 20-year-old self so hard for not taking at least 90% of this money and investing it toward your retirement or "whatever", especially given the power of compound interest over so much time.

        You have no idea what will come your way in the future. Toys can wait.
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        • Profile picture of the author agc
          Originally Posted by David Beroff View Post

          I can't stress enough just how much I agree with agc.

          Your 70-year-old self would slap your 20-year-old self so hard for not taking at least 90% of this money and investing it toward your retirement or "whatever", especially given the power of compound interest over so much time.

          You have no idea what will come your way in the future. Toys can wait.
          Hey, I'm not even saying invest it. He's 20. Outside of entry level houses, I don't think I invested a cent before I was 30. At least not one that I didn't manage to screw up somehow.

          All I'm saying is grow enough big boy power to say no to yourself until you have the cash. If you REALLY are going to pay if off in a year, then just wait that year and PAY CASH.

          Nothing says baller like writing a check for your Mercedes. And nothing says chump like signing a note for one.

          And trust me, everyone knows the difference, and if they don't, are they really worth having around you?

          Anyone who can make the 60k in a year (net after taxes with no deductions!), even if the current scheme, oops I mean "business", collapses, will probably find a new way to make it later too.

          He's 20. Let him spend it. He has his whole life ahead of him.

          BUT FOR GOD'S SAKE DON'T BORROW TO SPEND MONEY YOU DIDN'T MAKE YET ON CRAP YOU DON'T ACTUALLY NEED.

          If it was lottery money, or Grandma died, that would be an entirely different story. In that case, I'd be saying invest all of it, don't spend a penny.
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          • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
            Originally Posted by agc View Post

            Hey, I'm not even saying invest it. He's 20. Outside of entry level houses, I don't think I invested a cent before I was 30. At least not one that I didn't manage to screw up somehow.

            All I'm saying is grow enough big boy power to say no to yourself until you have the cash. If you REALLY are going to pay if off in a year, then just wait that year and PAY CASH.

            Nothing says baller like writing a check for your Mercedes. And nothing says chump like signing a note for one.

            And trust me, everyone knows the difference, and if they don't, are they really worth having around you?

            Anyone who can make the 60k in a year (net after taxes with no deductions!), even if the current scheme, oops I mean "business", collapses, will probably find a new way to make it later too.

            He's 20. Let him spend it. He has his whole life ahead of him.

            BUT FOR GOD'S SAKE DON'T BORROW TO SPEND MONEY YOU DIDN'T MAKE YET ON CRAP YOU DON'T ACTUALLY NEED.

            If it was lottery money, or Grandma died, that would be an entirely different story. In that case, I'd be saying invest all of it, don't spend a penny.
            I am working 40 hours a week on a job which pays exactly same amount of money yearly which will cover this car. I have one side business with two of my friends selling stuff on amazon & ebay & getting extra profit, reinvesting into it month after month.
            I am starting off Internet Marketing thing, working on only one proiject right now & trying to scale this up & find more stuff online. I am not moving away from my parents, guarantee. Talking more about parents, that would be me who will help me pay off their house after I am done with paying off my car.

            However, thank ya all for your input - Got something from it !
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    I don't know how you make your money, or what you are basing your projects on, but I would suggest that at 20 years old, your experience in making projections and observing them for accuracy and reasonableness is likely nascent.

    For a 20 year old, I would actually suggest waiting until you can pay cash.

    Far too many people in their 30's are working to repair the damage caused by poor planning (inexperience) in their 20's.

    The world is a big place, so maybe you really are the next Bill Gates. But the odds are you are projecting success (extrapolating ) from an insufficient data set.

    By spending it before it's in your pocket, you are setting yourself up for a beating.

    Gramma had a saying: Don't count your chickens before they hatch.
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    Ok, so now I'm really curious. You're 20. You work in a job as an employee that pays $60k after taxes, so that's at least $90k before taxes, say $45/hr.

    The median family income in the US is $55k. That's before taxes.

    I am extremely curious what job you have, at 20, that pays that 1.5 x the family median, or 3x the individual median, and exactly how you came to have that job.

    I'm not hating. I just have always studied people who fall so far outside the range of normal, and I am truly interested.
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    • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
      Originally Posted by agc View Post

      Ok, so now I'm really curious. You're 20. You work in a job as an employee that pays $60k after taxes, so that's at least $90k before taxes, say $45/hr.

      The median family income in the US is $55k. That's before taxes.

      I am extremely curious what job you have, at 20, that pays that 1.5 x the family median, or 3x the individual median, and exactly how you came to have that job.

      I'm not hating. I just have always studied people who fall so far outside the range of normal, and I am truly interested.
      I am software engineer, and the job pays 60k BEFORE taxes.
      The reason I said I can pay this car off in one year is because I have also side incomes + ~15k cash as of today.
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    OK. Got it. I'm a developer with hedge fund.

    I will show you something that I sincerely wish someone had explained to me when I was 20, rather than figuring it out for myself way too many years later. I'll hit the main bullet points. In all cases, consider the 10% as a convenient "on average" figure.

    1) Question) Whats a Dollar worth? Answer) 10 cents a year for the rest of your life. A 60k car has to be "worth" giving up a $6000 a year raise in order to be a good idea. Worth giving up the raise for the rest of your life.

    2) Your money gets a 10% raise every year. Put it in a 401k / IRA / Roth IRA to make sure the gummint don't get none dat.

    3) We need a lot less than we want. Learning to separate needs from wants lets us be deliberate about when and where we choose to spend extra above what we need and get what we want.

    4) Why save? They say save for a rainy day. Eff that. Don't "save for a rainy day." INVEST. "Invest for your freedom."

    5) Freedom is when your UNEARNED INCOME exceeds your needs.
    Invest so you one day your unearned income, you know, the money your money makes while you lounge in bed eating froot loops, your unearned income exceeds your needs. Then you can tell "the man" to go get bent.

    I hope I made this simple and clear, and maybe you get it. If you are lucky enough to "get it", it will change your life forever.
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  • Profile picture of the author agc
    So yeah. I guess I am saying invest it. lol
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  • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
    I think I am done discussing this, but the only thing I want to mention is that buying this car is well worth $6000 annual raise
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    • Profile picture of the author salegurus
      Originally Posted by kubikdanon View Post

      I think I am done discussing this, but the only thing I want to mention is that buying this car is well worth $6000 annual raise
      OK, so what's with the follow-up? Also my BS radar is telling me that your claims are _ _ ....
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      • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
        Originally Posted by salegurus View Post

        OK, so what's with the follow-up? Also my BS radar is telling me that your claims are _ _ ....
        First of all, I don't really care what's your BS radar telling you. I didn't start the thread because I wanted to discuss my money, I still left a lot of stuff private.

        I am done discussing this because I see that you guys think one way, I think another way. Furthermore, originally my topic was how to negotiate with a dealer, not whether or not I should buy this car.
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  • Profile picture of the author bizgrower
    I'd suggest having a lot in savings or investments first - at least 50% to 100%
    of the value of the car. You'll appreciate the nest later if things get difficult.
    Economy can turn, jobs can be lost and take a long time to replace the
    same income - maybe your employer has one major client and they shut
    down if the client goes away.

    Maybe you'll get a significant other and change your priorities.

    I know somebody who has a BMW X3. The stock tires are run flats and cost $329
    each, plus installation and balancing . A sensor not covered under warranty went
    out and cost $1000.00 parts and labor to replace. It controlled lights and heat.
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    "If you think you're the smartest person in the room, then you're probably in the wrong room."

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    • Profile picture of the author TrickyDick
      Originally Posted by bizgrower View Post

      I'd suggest having a lot in savings or investments first - 50% to 100%.
      You'll appreciate the nest later if things get difficult. Economy can turn,
      jobs can be lost and take a long time to replace the same income - maybe
      your employer has one major client and they shut down if the client goes away.

      Maybe you'll get a significant other and change your priorities.

      I know somebody who has a BMW X3. The stock tires are run flats and cost $329
      each, plus installation and balancing . A sensor not covered under warranty went
      out and cost $1000.00 parts and labor to replace. It controlled lights and heat.
      Agreed....

      A MB will require lots and lots of maintenance.... I have several friends who have them.... They've spent more in one repair than I've spent in years on my Acura.....

      If I were a young lad looking for a luxury car, I'd be hitting up cars.com for a three to four year old Acura...

      When one has $500,000 in savings, the deed to your home and no debt.... That would be the time to consider a "high maintenance" car.

      Companies will come and go.... Jobs will come and go.... Your health could come and go..... God forbid you have any of these two together..... Even $500,000 in savings could go relatively quickly.....

      I'd also highly recommend the poster read The Millionaire Next Door. It describes the massive difference between "artifacts of wealth" (cars, homes, boats, motorcycles, etc.) and "real wealth" (net worth). It is an eye opener!
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  • Profile picture of the author kubikdanon
    Hey guys, even though I appreciate your suggestions for not buying the car, my original question was just how to negotiate with a dealer, that's it !
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