Car won't start when hot

If it were an older car I'd say vapor lock. New cars - don't know.

It sounds like your battery cable to ground needs a cleaning.

Pull the terminals off your battery and clean the cable connections (both + & -)

If that doesn't work clean the cables where they connect at the starter and/or frame.

The battery is new with newly cleaned connections. The problem is not connected to power or fuel as it starts easily when it cools down for approximately 30 minutes. It's got to be something like a sensor or module or something similar that that fails when hot but works fine when cool. I had a Ford sometime ago that acted the same and it was a bad sensor. Its been too long for me to remember exactly what it was.

Roaddog,

Is that air mass sensor something that would shut down the starting but not affect the electrical system when it got hot? When I turn the key nothing happens until it cools down then it starts and runs fine until I shut it off again. Then I have to wait 30 minutes again.

Since you said it was only when it's hot, I found this. I'm not sure it is this but I've heard something similar.

Major vacuum leak (An open EGR valve, disconnected vacuum hose, PCV valve, etc, can create a large vacuum leak and allow too much air to be sucked into the engine. This will make the air/fuel mixture too lean and make the engine hard to start. Engine will usually idle rough if it does start.

The EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It has to do with HOT gasses in the exhaust. I would look into your EGR or a vacuum leak problem. Just something to eliminate.

Most and I mean most problems on 'modern' auto's stem from the emissions systems.

But I'll tell you OP should find out because one of the reasons they would interrupt starting is to prevent damage from rich running, to other sensors, including oxygen sensors, and to the cats and on down the chain. Supposed to have a dummy mode though.

Maybe bad starter solenoid.

Find a long enough heavy wire, turn the key on, use the wire to bypass the solenoid and see if it starts up.

yep i had exactly the same problem - i had a relatively new battery and connections too - turned out to be a problem with the battery connectors...

I'm with Jim on it being a sensor.

My next guess is a fault in the ignition wiring system or for the sensors. It may be a connection and not the sensor itself. We know heat expands things, including the gap between things, such as in connecting wires. It is possible that if the temp rises, this gap becomes too big and doesn't conduct juice.

I doubt it's this, but try anyway, since it's the easiest: Check your fuses for a slight crack.

Roaddog,

I agree that going to get a free diagnosis is not that great of an idea. I have a 2000 Ranger and the 2002 Taurus so I just got the regular one without the CAN feature. I got it on eBay for $35.00 including shipping. If I was going to use it a lot I probably would have went for a better one. Will keep you posted on this.

Thanks,
donrock

the sensor is under tube beside your Radiator, try to replace that,there are two sensor you have to replace, thermostat and the overheat sensor, and also try to drain the old radiator coolant and clean it.

I think your initial gut instinct about the internal thermostat might be right

A word of advice, take it to a trusted mech asap. I didnt and tomorrow morning im gonna find out what the damage is. The people at honda opened my hood and dropped a jaw. Gonna cost a pretty penny. Although mine was more than just heating, but it could have caused the other issues.

Wouldn't a sensor show up in a light on the dash? Fuses are a good bet though. I had a WEIRD problem with my 1992 VW Jetta! SAME symptoms! It wouldn't start when it was hot! The REASON? The STARTER MOTOR was BELOW the engine, and subjected to a LOT of heat. There was actually a field service replacement instruction(I forget the actual term, but it is short of a recall but close), to put in a heat shield. Once that was done, the problem vanished. USUALLY, at least when I was a kid, the starter motor is above where more of the heat has dissipated and air can flow over it to cool it.

Generally, various components CAN be affected by heat, if they are sub par or run past spec. They include electronics, but can EVEN include the engine block, or gasket. Of course, if it were the engine block, or gasket, it WOULD try to turn over. My starter motor problem also prevented it from turning over. BTW it took maybe 7 years for my starter motor problem. Also, *I* generally have battery problems in COLD weather! Of course, when I say cold, I mean COLD!!!

If you have had the same problem before on the same make of car, have them check it out. My mother once found out about an "sensor", on her car, that was setup to fail every so many thousands of miles. IT just lit an "idiot light" on the dashboard. The idea was to get you to come in, but they also originally charged almost $100 to replace the part. People called it a scam, so they eventually offered it for free.

Steve

If the engine cranks over but doesn't start, it is either a fuel or spark problem. If the engine doesn't crank over then there is a restriction of power going to the starter or the starter itself could be faulty.

If the engine doesn't crank over, I'm thinking a bad ground somewhere. Check where the ground cable attaches to the engine block.

Another possibility, although very rare, is the neutral safety switch which keeps the car from starting in gear.

I'm not sure about Ford products but the GM key has a chip in it that will keep the car from starting but that usually isn't affected by heat.

I'd love to hear the solution to this problem.

Thanks to everyone for all your advice. I'm waiting for my diagnostic scanner to be delivered and will report back when I've had a chance to use it.

Roaddog;

I got my diagnostic scanner and used it on my car. It said there were no codes. I decided to get the car hot and try it then. It still said no codes. After my car got hot it decided not to start by sounding just like a dead battery. It tried to start then just clicked. It had done this before then started when it cooled down. This really baffles me do you have any other suggestions?

donrock

Hey Jim...

Maybe it's the scanner? Can Don remove a fuse or do something simple to force an error code to check the scanner?

This morning the Taurus started right up like nothing was wrong. I guess I'm going to have to follow the advice many of gave me and take it to a mechanic. At least with all the advice I have a few things for the mechanic to check out. Thanks to everyone for contributing to this discussion.
donrock

This is going back some years to my husband's 'engine rebuild' days, but I seem to recall this having something to do with the solenoid valve not working when it's hot. According to Wikipedia...

Solenoid valve - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Way back in the 70s, this solenoid valve was a frequent issue with our old cars.

I remember one very well - I believe it was either my Chevette or Ventura. As soon as it got hot, it would stop. If I waited 15-30 minutes until it cooled, it would start again. Until one day, it just gave out. One day I'd driven from work (about 25 minutes), pulled into the store and shut it off. When I came back 5 min. later, it wouldn't start. I just had to wait.

Interestingly, one of the first times it happened, I called a mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong, because by the time he arrived, the car had cooled and it started right up.

Sylvia