Want To Build A PC...HELP!

Tiger direct is not bad because you're talking about 1 pc. Generally one of anything does not qualify for wholesale.

You can get "you build it" kits for just about any PC but not generally laptops.

Or you can buy pieces.

For one unit that's what I would do.

Patrick

Steven,
First you need to decide on either price OR quality.
If price is the major factor,set the limit then go pice by piece on what you fee you want versus what you need.
Tiger Direct as suggested is ok,but I prefer Newegg myself.
But to be honest,your guy that is going to teach you to build it should be helping you from cenception to finished pc.
I used to have a checklist I would give every customer that wanted me to custom build them a computer.I will see if I can find it and send it to you if I do,but in the meantime feel free to ask me any questions.
Kim

Do you have a Fry's electronics and/or PC recycling centers in your area?

Craigslist is another option.

I may have understood. Do you just want to build "a" computer just to do it, or do you want to build a fairly decent computer for your own personal use?

If you go to fry's, WATCH OUT! Those guys are IDIOTS! AND, ****NEVER**** ******NEVER****** ******************NEVER************** buy "OEM" memory from them! THEY will tell you that OEM memory is bad! Well, IBM, DELL, TOSHIBA, ETC.... use OEM memory. If you want to know the TRUTH, bring along a guy with even a MODEST understanding of high scale integration CPUs, and have them watch the employees pack, and handle the OEM memory. They handle things by the pins, throw them around, and aren't even grounded!

Tiger seems to be good, and many like new egg. Fry's may be OK if you buy MANUFACTURER packed components, but OEM costs less and is better for the environment. WHY? Because it is packed in BULK! That means it costs less to pack and ship, and doesn't have fancy packaging. The price savings may not be as much now, but you used to be able to save like 70% over many manufacturers.

BTW computers today can vary a lot. Hopefully you have reason to believe that the guy that will help you is more than a one hit wonder.

Price can vary GREATLY! It can go from maybe a little over $100 to well into the thousands. You have to determine what speed/quality you need, and WHERE. You can get maybe 4GB, which is PLENTY for most, and save a couple hundred. You can get a low end board and save more. You likely don't need a video card, or really ANY I/O, since it may all be built into the board. You can get a nice little case, and a 1TB drive and have a nice system on the cheap. Don't be scared of things like large drives. 1TB drives can be VERY cheap!

RESEARCH IT! Some boards are TOTALLY incompatible with other parts. Drives, cases, monitors, memory, CPU compatibility, ALL vary a LOT. Some mother boards may even be physically able to hook to a CPU but the settings and BIOS may not support it.

So if you buy a particular motherboard, you have to make sure it is compatible with the case, CPU, and memory, and if it isn't compatible with your monitor and/or drives, you will need to buy new cards.

I'm not trying to scare you, I just want to let you know. If you want the experience, and the savings, tiger DOES have kits! THEY picked the parts, and are there to help, but YOU assemble it!

Steve

Most kits are low end though. You are getting what you pay for. Buyer Beware.

You are definitely right Steve,most sales people don't know much about buillding a pc. And I am with you ,I don't wqant Steven to get crap parts either.I guess he could contact either one of us if he wants to run stuff by us before he puts the money down.

Once you know what you need, there are many reputable sellers on eBay that sell brand new parts/components. Find them, then browse their store - check out their feedback etc. Many sellers carry brand new parts. But, like anything, do your due diligence.

Steven,
Clear as mud.
So, you do want one you can actually use for work more than pleasure?
IE,Your IM versus music making?

And if something does wrong you can troubleshoot and fix yourself
Doing a build will get you started on the way,but it will still take a lot to get to the point of doing it all alone.

The first thing I'd recommend is sit down and decide what you will use it most for.
That ,as Steve pointed out,can dictate a lot of how you proceed.

For example,if its mosstly for work, and you mostly write, you won't need a powerhouse.
But if you want to do music,then research the specs of the programs you use now and might in the future.

I've always been a gamer,so almost every build I have done has focused mainly on a decent,yet not top of the line processor ( save some $$s going mid range) pretty close to top of the line memory,and for memory I use that to mean that with the least amount of known issues, and again,so save some $$s, medium to high end video.

And all this has to go into a case that will have good circulation to keep the temperature of everything in the case down,plus it needs to be put in a motherboard where everything works together.

There is a lot of new changes since I last did a build.
I hear USB3 is out now. That instead of IDE or SATA,that now there are solid state hard drives,but I've also heard since its newer technology,once again,its the higher priced spread.

Processors;do you like Intel,the old standby,or are you willing to save a few bucks again by going AMD?

You will need to by your operating system. Staying with Windows? Going to be daring and try Linux? If a Windows person,do you want to stick with the version you have and know now, Or will you go Windows 8 when it's released in October?

Lots and lots of though needs to be put into this,imo.

And I am sure many are willing to help as much as we can.
Good luck. May be the geek in my,but I've always ebjoyed laying the parts out on the table and 3-4 hours later giving it the first boot.

The best thing about building your own computer is that you get to choose all the parts. Pre-built, mass merchandise computers might seem like a good deal, but they cut corners -- everywhere.

You will always get a cheap video card, power supply, sound card, and motherboard.

My advice? When you build, buy quality, name-brand parts. (Intel is your friend.) A couple years from now, you'll be glad you did.

Building a desktop computer is easy. All you really need is a screwdriver. It's not rocket science. Windows will usually install the drivers for you via Plug & Play. It's easy. A good forum to ask questions at is HardwareGuys.com.

Make CERTAIN to avoid static electricity when you assemble your computer. If possible, build it in a room WITHOUT carpeting. And when you install a part, make sure it's fully seated, but don't use excessive force. If it seems to require a lot of force, you're installing it wrong.

I once had a problem with the computer I built. A part went bad. So I drove to Best Buy, bought a new part, and had it up and running in less than 3 minutes after I got home. It sure beats dragging it into a repair shop or shipping it back to the manufacturer and waiting for weeks -- especially if it's out of warranty.

John

Hello,

I have recently build my own PC would recommend i7" / Intel® Core™ i7-3770K UNLOCKED 3.5~4.5Ghz + AMD Radeon HD7850 2GB grafics, about ram it is up to you ddr3 8gb will handle perfect. HD it is up to you. It should cost to you up to 1k $. Not sure if my post is helpful...

I taught myself how to build a PC using Youtube.

I'd check out Tom's hardware review to understand the state of the current technology. Once you know what you want check out tiger direct, new egg and any local shops for the best prices.

Johnny 12345 is right about integrated video.
Integrated sound on the other hand has come quite a long ways.
If I was going to do a build today,I'd get a motherboard with integrated sound,but I'd still go for a mid range video card.

First question,will 2 USB ports be enough?

Steven,

The ad is a little confusing. The only way it makes sense, to start, is if there are SIX USB ports! YEAH, I know, it says 4, and kimw said 2. Apparently, there are 4 USB 2.0, and 2 USB 3.0. 3.0 are rarer and often not supported at full speed, but they are faster than the still very good 2.0. To tell you the truth, most probably won't go over the 2.0.

It says 6 total ports, and all 6 to the rear, and then speaks of 3 headers, and it is expandable to 6. Anyway, I would go to the company site, but can't really do that now.

BTW 6 total is probably fine. and 2 USB 3.0 are probably fine. I think maybe 4 is minimum, and I have been working with 3USB lately. 8-/

Steve

Steve,
You are correct. I missed both the USB 3 ports and the 2 USB2 ports located by the keyboard connector.
I even went back to the ad's picture and looked again and missed them. It wasn't until I went to newegg where they had a better,imo, picture that I saw what you were talking about.
My bad.

Probably.
You will probably need to get some thermal paste too.Cheap but needed.
Also, unless you already have a spare version of an operating system lying around you will need to add that to your list.
Some might also suggest getting a static discharge wrist strap.

The thermal paste is like a gel that you put on the bottom of the CPU and the motherboard to disspiate the heat that is produced when the computer is running. When you look at a processor, probably 99% of what you see is part of the heatsink and the actual processor is a small computer chip attached to it.

Here is a page of google images that might explain what I'm trying to say a bit better:
http://www.google.com/search?num=10&....1.Ih7AgDuJUuE

lol, no, its more of an insulator than a glue...Its been a few years ( since I got sicck actually) since I've done a build,but last time I did mounting the cpu onto the motherboard did consist of basically "snapping" and/or "clamping" it in place.

What the #$%^&*(_?!?!?!? Thermal paste is a CONDUCTOR, NOT an insulator, and it goes on TOP of the CPU to ensure a good THERMAL connection between the CPU and the heatsink. DON'T put ANY such product on the bottom of the CPU. If it gets on the pins, balls, or whatever, you could end up in TROUBLE!

And Steven... Last I knew, they had ZIF(Zero Insertion force) sockets. You flip a lever, the cpu, which is generally polarized so it only fits ONE way, slips in, and you flip the lever back to clamp it into place. Of course, of the past 2 decades, the elctronics industry has decided to blow away practically ALL standards they can. One such standard is the type of connector. Some CPUs have like balls, and I think they clamp the other way. ATOM CPUs are soldered in. So who knows.

The FIRST CPUs, at least the popular 8-16bit ones, had 40 pins, and a regular socket, and it was easy to damage them putting them in. New CPUs have hundreds of pins, so something had to change. Of course, some computers had ZIF sockets even for the 40 pin ones.

BTW unless your system is grounded, and you touch it, and are in a clear area, DEFINITELY get a wrist strap! THAT is why so much OEM memory is garbage from fry's, they know, and care, NOTHING about ESD! A spark you feel could OBLITERATE a CPU! Under the microscope a formerly flat surface, of the chip, will look like a MOUNTAIN RANGE!

Steve